Moderated newsgroup PARTS RECYCLING for somebody LOOKING OR SELLING....   >   Other   >   Shredders   >   Build a hot air pumping engine lathe mill 1

Build a hot air pumping engine lathe mill 1


What is for sale: Build a hot air pumping engine lathe mill 1

bounce, yer money order will get lost in the mail and yer dog won't come home.
click on our "Contact Us" icon above for the quickest response to your questions.
BUILD A HOT AIR PUMPING ENGINE LATHE MILL 1
BUILD A HOT AIR PUMPING ENGINE LATHE MILL 1
BUILD A HOT AIR PUMPING ENGINE LATHE MILL 1
BUILD A HOT AIR PUMPING ENGINE LATHE MILL 1
BUILD A HOT AIR PUMPING ENGINE LATHE MILL 1
BUILD A HOT AIR PUMPING ENGINE LATHE MILL 1
BUILD A HOT AIR PUMPING ENGINE LATHE MILL 1
BUILD A HOT AIR PUMPING ENGINE LATHE MILL 1
BUILD A HOT AIR PUMPING ENGINE LATHE MILL 1
BUILD A HOT AIR PUMPING ENGINE LATHE MILL 1
BUILD A HOT AIR PUMPING ENGINE LATHE MILL 1
Build a Hot Air Pumping Engine
This Featured Section of the larger steam & stirling models project book covers building a working model Hot Air Pumping Engine. It includes drawings, instructions and commentary on the building methods. The book includes 16 model projects in all and yes, you get the whole book! Whatever is needed in the way of drawings, instruction and comments on methods to successfully complete each project is included for each project.
This is just one of the 16 projects included in the book. I'll let each author tell you a little about their project in their own words. Here's Larry.
The hot-air or Stirling Cycle Engine was invented in 1817 by a Scot named Robert Stirling. This quarter-sized model follows the prototype of an 8" Rider-Ericsson Hot-Air Pumping Engine, which is in the Henry Ford Museum at Greenfield Village, Dearborn, Michigan.
Steam was the only other practical choice, since internal combustion engines were not invented until the 1880's. Steam engines, with their boilers operating at high pressures and the trained engineers require to watch over them, were often impractical for small or isolated installations.
The Ericsson Hot Air Pumping Engine was first patented in 1880. It was the creation of John Ericsson, who was born in Sweden in 1803 and emigrated to America in 1839.
Stirling Cycle engines use an external heat source and John Ericsson also designed a solar-powered engine in 1872!
The original of this engine is in the Henry Ford Museum, in Dearborn, Michigan. It is classified as an eight-inch engine, referring to the bore. The stroke is 3'/8". Operating at 100 to 120 RPM, it was capable of pumping 500 gallons per hour. The indicated horsepower was approximately 1/8.
Although the first Ericsson Pumping Engines were put into production in 1880, this particular engine was produced at the turn of the century. The main difference is in the legs and crankshaft bracket. Legs on earlier models were forged round bar stock instead of the cast type.
In operation, the engine was fired with wood, coal, producer gas or kerosene, depending on the type of firebox ordered. When the displacer cylinder reached operating temperature-usually in about fifteen minutes-the flywheel would be rotated by hand and the engine would run.
The water pump was connected to the far end of the walking beam via a link. Water was drawn up through the lower inlet of the pump and into the main engine cylinder water jacket through a port in the pump mounting flange.
The water was first used to cool the power piston portion of the cylinder, then it was expelled out the flywheel side of the cylinder to the storage tank or reservoir. The dome-shaped air chambers located at the inlet and outlet were used to cushion the pulsation created by the single-acting pump.
Build an Opposed Piston Steam Engine
In the December, 1977, issue of Popular Science, a radical new design of diesel engine caught my eye. It was an opposed piston, swing-beam engine being developed by the English firm of Armstrong Whitworth and Company, Limited, of Slough, near London.
The model presented here is an adaptation of this principle to a steam-powered engine which is simple to build and provides an answer to the Amateur Machinist asking for designs of small stationary engines which do not require castings.
For a simple engine, it does have several interesting features. It appears to be a balanced engine, but the weight of the arms and pistons and the speed do cause some vibration. The short throw at the cranks requires a high speed. The pistons travel twice as far as the connecting rods do at the cranks.
Also, there is room for some experimenting. The engine was first made with the exhaust only through the shaft, but it did not seem to run quite right. Two exhaust holes were then added to make a una-flow type exhaust. These, plus the other exhaust passage, lets it run like mad! If either of the two exhaust systems is closed off, the engine slows down, so both are needed.
Something else to experiment with is the width and location of the flats on the shaft, to change the timing and cutoff.
The material for this engine can be most any of the common metals. Since this was to be a display and conversation piece and not run very much, it was made of a fairly hard aluminum that was on hand. The pistons, bearings, eccentrics and screws are brass, the flat washers at the eccentrics are steel and the piston pin is drill rod. The foot, column and cylinder are simple, straight pieces requiring squareness and accurate layout.
BUILD A STATIONARY STEAM PLANT
Here's a project for all you "tinkers" like me who like to get out in the shop now and again and "make-up" as you go.
The original plant will raise 40 pounds of steam in two or three minutes, and steam a 9/64" x 5/16" double acting engine at a steady 2,500 rpm on 20 psi with remarkable power. The work is within range of a beginner and his Unimat.
Most of the materials will be in your scrap box or at the local hardware store, but you may want to get off an order for some 1/8" OD pipe fittings, an ounce of 1/16" x 1/4" copper rivets, a Stuart pressure gauge, and perhaps a small pop valve. Your local hobby store will have some sheet brass and small brass tubing in concentric sizes.
Instead of exact drawings, there's sketches and photos with blow by blow instructions. The original was made from some freehand "idea" sketches. So just add a little bit of your own ingenuity where you like and let's get going!
Build a Square (!) Cylinder Steam Engine
This steam engine model is based on drawings shown in an old book, The Steam Engine, by Robert Scott Burn, published in London in 1854. Because the mechanism is unusual, I decided to build a model.
The piston both rotates and oscillates in a rectangular cylinder. It is supported and guided by a pair of arms that pivot on the crank shaft. The piston is rotated by a pair of cranks and arms on either side of the cylinder, mounted on the piston shaft which extends through both cylinder side plates.
These cranks are clamped to the piston shaft 90° apart and 45° to the eccentricity of the piston, as shown. This avoids dead centers and counter balances the piston eccentricity with the connecting rods.
The cranks are clamped to the piston shaft and crankshaft by split clamps. The hole in the crank must be a snug fit to make the clamp hold. I have had no problem with this. The cranks could be pinned in place after line up.
The piston is fitted with about .001" clearance on the diameter. Note that an alloy steel is specified. It need not be stressproof but something harder than low carbon. I tried screw stock but it is too soft and scuffs in the cylinder. I also tried Teflon which is great if only air is used to run the engine. The coefficient of expansion is too high for steam and it swells up like a balloon.
The long crank pin extends into the coupling on the fly wheel shaft. The hole is a loose fit to take up misalignment. Dowel the crankshaft bearings in place with escutcheon pins - tight in the bearings and loose in the frame. Put spacers along both sides of the connecting rods at the crank pins and crankshaft.
The model is designed so it can be made using a lathe, drill press and file. Although I used brass for the major portion of my model, steel can be used for many parts."
Build a Half Horse Marine Engine
You'll need a real boat for this one! And you'll probably have a little trouble making it on your Sherline or Unimat. This is a big sucka. It was designed for a 12-1/2 ft boat with a 48" beam! But if you can get your hands on a 10" lathe you should be able to handle it. These plans were rediscovered by Weston Farmer after almost 50 years! Here's the story.
A Brief Prelude by Weston Farmer
In 1928, at the age of 25, I lucked out in being chosen as the editor to start Fawcett's Modern Mechanics and Inventions Magazine. This evolved into Modern Mechanix and eventually to Mechanix Illustrated. We were all Rover Boys or Tom Swifts.
One publishing adventure as an offshoot by Fawcett was the Mechanical Package Magazine. This was the first magazine-in-a-box and carried kits for hobby building. After four issues, the "packmag" was killed as being too cost-intensive.
Before the Mechanical Package Magazine died, I had ordered a steam engine design from Henry Greenly, the great English engine designer. Greenly delivered the drawings and copy just before the packmag demise and Acme Machine built his engine. The plans and manuscript were never published - but Greenly was paid the $15 he demanded for the drawings and story.
In 1943, while I was in Alaska, I designed a small, two-Rover-Boy-sized boat for the Greenly engine to power. The sketches were originally printed in an edition of Rudder magazine and are reproduced on these pages, also.
The other day, Greenly's letter of transmittal and his story about how to build the engine popped out of a niche in my files, long forgotten.
Readers of the project will savor this discovery. It relates to the fun to be had by involvement with the velvety power of steam, that unforgettable satisfaction to be had only by men who know it.
Posthumously, then, here are fresh words of steam engine wisdom and construction by Henry Greenly, who was nonpariel in his day as a designer of British steam engines.
Build a 10" Stirling Engined Fan
Here's a unique project. Not only do you get to build a hot air engine but a really cool fan that'll work whether the electricity is on or not!
Moriya is a project that can make you more comfortable. And, because of its novelty, provide perhaps more than the usual measure of satisfaction which accompanies the construction of any precision machine.
Until at least 35 years ago, hot air fans were produced commercially and were to be found in widely scattered parts of the globe. Despite the fact that the power output of the rudimentary stirling cycle engine is extremely low, it was ideally suited to the task of driving these fans because of its quiet, reliable, and maintenance free nature.
These fans were very popular among farmers and missionaries in remote torrid regions.
Although hot air powered fans are no match, size for size, for electric fans, Moriya spins its 10 inch fan blade in excess of 500 rpm to provide a gentle soothing breeze at a distance of two or three feet.
Not having an electric table fan, Moriya has on several occasions done faithful and commendable duty alongside my drafting table or atop my desk.
The project requires no castings and the machining can easily be handled on a 6 inch lathe.
Build a Reversing Steam Turbine
Several years ago, while watching my latest creation, a small two-cylinder stationary steam engine work, it occurred to me that maybe the proponents of the steam turbine had something. Namely: - one moving part. So, off to the library to find out what I could. Well, they had a very simple principle and some sophisticated designs.
I started out to use both but after more discarded designs and material than I care to admit to, about all I retained was the simple principle. The design is pretty basic. It operates on 20lb. - 40lb. of steam and actually whines at top speed. Turning up under full steam, the turbine whines and sends up whisps of steam.
There is one thing this little turbine can do that a lot of the sophisticated ones can't, and that is reverse. Even while turning up at top speed it can be thrown into reverse and it will stop, and start winding up in the opposite direction almost immediately with no harm done to anything.
It won't cost an arm and a leg to build either. The cost will be less than a night out with your girl friend, or even your wife. It is not complicated to build and, I believe, will be enjoyable.
Just where you start is pretty much up to you. I do suggest that you study the drawings and instructions first, however.
Bijou is an exceptional engine, but not only because of its tiny size. Its single acting oscillating cylinder incorporates a trunkguide similar to the crosshead guide in fixed cylinder engines, a feature which greatly reduces friction and extends piston and cylinder life over that of the common oscillating model or toy.
Performance is exceptional also; the tiny engine comes to life on a mere 5 p.s.i. but buzzes with a character all its own on 25 p.s.i.
Despite its small size, Bijou is not hard to build; it is an ideal short project for a small lathe such as the Unimat. Nearly all the dimensions given in the drawings can be varied three thousandths - very easy tolerances to live with in machine work.
Exceptions occur where one part must mate another in a running or press fit, but even here the tolerance applies to one of the parts. Furthermore, a simple two-piece fixture used to drill the steam ports assures correct location of these items so critical to the proper operation of any oscillating engine.
Build a V-4 Oscillating Cylinder Engine
I managed to build my own engine in two weekends and the boiler in about the same amount of time. Add to that the time spent in making the boiler fittings, like the check valves, water gauge and the butane burner. These things can, of course, be purchased ready-made for a reasonable sum to save time, but they are easy and interesting things to make.
In order to keep things as simple as possible, the engine has single-acting, oscillating cylinders; thus there are no valves, valve gear or glands. The drawback with single-acting cylinders is that the engine must have four cylinders in order to be selfstarting in all positions.
By making it in the shape of a V-4, the crankshaft will then require only two cranks, 180° apart, which will simplify fabrication. I say fabrication, because the crankshaft is built up from rods and disks, stuck together with Loctite and pinned for additional security. No finish machining is required.
All parts are quite small, the whole project being well within the capacity of the smallest lathe, such as a Unimat. The materials required are easily obtained, brass, copper and silver steel, together with a few bits of bronze and stainless steel rods.
Because the engine is relatively slowrunning, around 1000 RPM at 30 psi, it is best suited for a heavy hull with a large screw, like a tug. Of course, it can be run much faster, but I think it is better to keep down the RPM and use its torque instead. There is plenty of the latter.
Build a Miniature Boiler Works
This boiler is intended as a companion to the previously described little V-4 Oscillating Cylinder Engine. However it's suitable as a steam source for for most of the engines in this book.
As it is capable of generating steam at considerably higher pressure than the V-4 requires, it can, of course, be used for other steam engines, say, a Stuart 10 or similar.
In choosing between a firetube or watertube boiler, it is my opinion that the former involves more work on the boiler proper, while the latter involves more thin-gauge sheet metal work in making the casing. I opted for the water tube boiler (and a small and simple one at that) because it does not require so much in the way of brazing equipment.
I have included a few features which, although they mean a little more work, are justified. The first is a steam dome, not usually found in boilers of this type. This is essential in such a small boiler if it is to be used for marine work, as it will help prevent priming when pitching and rolling.
The second is that the casing is double-walled. The air for combustion is taken through inlet holes on top of the outer casing, then passes between the outer and inner casings, down to the bottom of the firebox. In this manner, the temperature of the outer casing is kept down and the air for combustion is preheated before entering the firebox. No asbestos lagging is required.
Finally, a water column is fitted, thereby permitting a longer gauge glass to be fitted. The water column will also dampen the water level in the glass, giving a more accurate reading.
Plus 6 more building projects! That should keep you busy until next week. Most of the materials for these projects you'll find in your scrap box or some of your pal's scrap box. Make a deal with him. Go in together and build some projects. It's always more fun working together.
The projects presented have been built by men from all walks of life and were designed by hobbyists from an equally broad span of devotees who enjoy model engineering as a fascinating and extremely satisfying past time.
If you presently do not have a home workshop, you can start off with Andrew Sprague's Hand-Tool Steam Engines which can be built with the inexpensive hand tools found in almost any home or apartment.
Many Live Steam projects have been built using a small electric hand drill as a lathe. Even if space precludes a separate room for a workshop, small-capacity metalworking machinery is available that can be set up on a kitchen table and stored away in a closet or cabinet when not in use.
Steam and Stirling - Engines You Can Build provides direction for the experienced and instruction for the novice in the fast-growing ranks of Amateur Machinists.
If you want to include some of the larger projects, consider enrolling in a night-school class where adequate facilities are available.
The two main requirements necessary to get you into the Live Steam Hobby are (1) decide and (2) get this book!
8-1/2" X 11" Hard cover w/dust jacket 159 pages profusely illustrated with color and b/w photos and dimensioned drawings.
Visit my MarketplaceAdvisor Gallery! Power Tools for Power Sellers!
Phone: (***) 744-4449 M-F 9:00 to 4:00 Pacific Standard Time
This item has been seen by alt people!

Contact: jerry.farrell@parts-recycling.com (Jerry Farrell) (email hidden).



Build a hot air pumping engine lathe mill 1